Where to Find the Best Trad Routes in North America
For trad climbers, nothing beats the feeling of placing your own protection, reading the rock, and topping out with nothing but the sky above you. But where are the best places to climb trad in North America?
From the towering granite walls of Yosemite to the splitter cracks of Indian Creek, this guide covers the top trad climbing destinations—and the must-have trad climbing equipment to keep you safe and send with confidence.
Yosemite Valley with El Capitan, Sentinel Rock, Cathedral Rocks, and Bridalveil Fall, California
1. Yosemite National Park, California
🎯 Why It’s Awesome: The birthplace of modern big-wall trad climbing, Yosemite is iconic for its crack systems, long routes, and legendary history.
🏆 Best Trad Routes:
✅ The Nose (5.14a or 5.9 C2) – The most famous big-wall climb in the world.
✅ Royal Arches (5.7 A0 or 5.10b free) – A long, classic multi-pitch adventure.
✅ Serenity Crack & Sons of Yesterday (5.10d, 5.10a) – Classic crack climbing with bomber placements.
🧗♂️ Must-Have Gear:
✔️ Totem Cams: Ideal for Yosemite’s pin scars and flared cracks.
✔️ Double set of cams (BD Camalots or Totems) in finger-to-hand sizes.
✔️ Nut set for thinner cracks.
✔️ 60m or 70m rope for long pitches.
💡 Pro Tip: Yosemite granite is polished in places—Totem Cams grip better in slick cracks than many traditional cams.
Indian Creek, Utah
Photo credit: Bob Wick
2. Indian Creek, Utah
🎯 Why It’s Awesome: If you love splitter cracks, this is trad heaven. Indian Creek is known for its endless sandstone cracks, where nearly every route requires perfect cam placements.
🏆 Best Trad Routes:
✅ Supercrack of the Desert (5.10a) – The most famous splitter crack in the Creek.
✅ Scarface (5.11a) – A steep, striking crack with powerful moves.
✅ Way Rambo (5.12a) – A testpiece for endurance crack climbing.
🧗♂️ Must-Have Gear:
✔️ At least a double rack of cams (preferably triples in key sizes).
✔️ Totem Cams for pin scars and flared placements.
✔️ Tape gloves (you’ll need them for endless jamming).
✔️ 70m rope for linking pitches.
💡 Pro Tip: Indian Creek eats up cams—bring extras or swap gear with your climbing partners.
The Trapps cliff of Shawangunk Ridge located at Mohonk Preserve near New Paltz, New York
Attribution: Jarek Tuszyński / CC-BY-SA-3.0 & GDFL
3. The Gunks (Shawangunks), New York
🎯 Why It’s Awesome: The Gunks are home to some of the best horizontal crack climbing in the world. Unlike many trad destinations, protection is often placed in horizontal rather than vertical cracks.
🏆 Best Trad Routes:
✅ High Exposure (5.6) – One of the most exhilarating and exposed 5.6 climbs ever.
✅ Modern Times (5.8+ R) – Committing overhangs and huge exposure.
✅ Retribution (5.10b) – Technical face climbing with bomber pro.
🧗♂️ Must-Have Gear:
✔️ Totem Cams for horizontal cracks (their flexible stems reduce walking).
✔️ Tricams for funky placements.
✔️ Single set of nuts.
✔️ 60m rope (most pitches are short).
💡 Pro Tip: Alpine draws help reduce rope drag on the wandering Gunks routes.
4. Squamish, British Columbia
Chief Mountain in Squamish, BC, Canada
🎯 Why It’s Awesome: Known as the “Yosemite of the North,” Squamish has world-class granite trad climbing, with everything from single-pitch cragging to full-day alpine adventures.
🏆 Best Trad Routes:
✅ The Grand Wall (5.11a, 5.10a A0) – A must-do multi-pitch testpiece.
✅ Split Pillar (5.10b) – One of the best 5.10 cracks in North America.
✅ Snake (5.9) – A fun, exposed granite classic.
🧗♂️ Must-Have Gear:
✔️ Totem Cams (perfect for Squamish’s pin scars).
✔️ Double rack of cams, including microcams.
✔️ Nut set (essential for many routes).
✔️ 70m rope (for longer routes and linking pitches).
💡 Pro Tip: Squamish cracks often flare, making Totem Cams the best choice for tricky placements.
Desert rock formations in Red Rock Canyon. Nevada.
5. Red Rock Canyon, Nevada
🎯 Why It’s Awesome: Red Rock offers stunning sandstone trad climbing, with long, well-protected multi-pitch routes and shorter, technical crack climbs.
🏆 Best Trad Routes:
✅ Epinephrine (5.9, 13 pitches) – A must-do multi-pitch adventure.
✅ Crimson Chrysalis (5.8+, 9 pitches) – Beautiful crack climbing up a tall tower.
✅ Frogland (5.8, 6 pitches) – A classic, well-protected intro to Red Rock trad.
🧗♂️ Must-Have Gear:
✔️ Standard double rack of cams.
✔️ Totem Cams for pockets and flared placements.
✔️ Alpine draws (to reduce rope drag on wandering routes).
✔️ 70m rope (for rappels and longer pitches).
💡 Pro Tip: Start early—Red Rock gets hot, and multi-pitch routes can take all day.
By OMCV – Own work, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=5645425
6. Eldorado Canyon, Colorado
🎯 Why It’s Awesome: Home to technical face and crack climbing, Eldorado Canyon is famous for its airy, runout routes and unique sandstone features.
🏆 Best Trad Routes:
✅ The Bastille Crack (5.7) – One of the best 5.7s in the U.S.
✅ Yellow Spur (5.9+) – Classic multi-pitch climbing with exposure.
✅ Rosy Crucifixion (5.10a) – A stunning dihedral with great gear.
🧗♂️ Must-Have Gear:
✔️ Totem Cams (ideal for funky placements in Eldo’s irregular cracks).
✔️ A mix of cams and nuts.
✔️ Long slings (many routes wander).
✔️ 60m rope (some pitches are short but rope drag can be an issue).
💡 Pro Tip: Be ready for spice! Many Eldo routes have runouts and tricky gear placements.
Final Thoughts: Where Will You Trad Climb Next?
North America is packed with world-class trad climbing, but each destination requires the right gear. Whether you’re crack climbing in Indian Creek, big-walling in Yosemite, or tackling tricky horizontal cracks in The Gunks, having the best trad climbing equipment makes all the difference.
Checklist: Must-Have Gear for Any Trad Destination
✅ Totem Cams (for tricky and marginal placements)
✅ A double rack of cams (Totem, BD Camalots, or DMM Dragons)
✅ Nut set for extra protection
✅ Alpine draws & long slings
✅ A solid 60m or 70m rope
📢 Ready to upgrade your trad rack? Shop Totem Cams now and climb with confidence!
